Picpus cemetery

This tiny cemetery, located behind a nondescript entrance along a small out-of-the-way sidestreet in the 12th arrondissement, is one of Paris' most unusual burial grounds.

In the summer of 1794 what had been a local neighborhood garden soon became two mass graves (photo above left) for the hundreds of decapitated bodies from the guillotine that had been set up at Place du Trone-Renverse, today Place de la Nation, just a few short blocks away.

click to enlarge

Imagine 16 Carmelite nuns, all singing as they're led to the scaffold where, one-by-one, only one is left, still singing as she is led up the steps to the block.

Between June 14 and July 18, 1794, one thousand three hundred and six men and women were executed, as many as 55 a day, the carts trundling back and forth between the place and the gravesite.

Today you can still see a small portion of the original wooden fence which had once enclosed the graves, as well as the original entrance for the carts bringing the bodies.

Before leaving step inside the small chapel, you passed it on your way in, and go to the far end, and on either side of the nave are two enormous plaques bearing the names, ages, occupations and date of death for each of the 1,306 people interred in the mass graves. Commoners and nobles alike suffered the same fate and now rest together.

Picpus is also unique for another reason, and one which more Americans should be aware of: it is the burial site for Lafayette (photo above), one of the true heroes of the American Revolution and the fight for independence. His grave is maintained by the local chapter of the DAR and always flies and American flag.

While Lafayette and his family survived the terror of his country's own revolution, many of his wife's family did not. And since a prerequisite to be buried at Picpus is having a family member perish on the guillotine that cruel summer of 1794, he and his wife rest near the entrance to the mass grave area.


Directions: Located at 25 rue de Picpus. As you exit the metro at Place de la Nation you'll be faced with something like 60 streets radiating out from the place -- in fact there probably aren't more than two dozen. So to find your way to rue de Picpus, not the Blvd Picpus, you can take rue Dorian, rue Jaucqourt, or rue Fabre d'Elegantine off of the place, turn left onto rue Picpus and then walk down to the entrance, on your left at no. 35.

Entrances: There is only the one entrance.

Hours: The cemetery is open Tuesday-Sunday, often from 2-6, mid-April to August. From October to mid-April it is open 2-4. It is closed on holidays, Mondays, and in September, and for the US Fourth of July celebration when there is usually a ceremony featuring the US ambassador.

Facilities: Tiny conservator's office at the entrance.

Map (right-click or control-click to save the image to your desktop)

 

If you have any questions, comments or suggestions, e-mail: steve@pariscemeteries.com.
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