There are more than 20 cemeteries ("burial grounds") within the boundaries of the 20 arrondissements (city districts) in Paris, although of course there are many more burial "places" found in many of the city's churches and historic buildings such as Saint-German-des-Prés, Saint-Denis, the Panthéon, Les Invalides, or the catacombs.
This website is devoted solely to outdoor burying grounds, the "gardens of stone". For information on places such as the Panthéon and Les Invalides consult your guidebook.
Responding to growing concerns about the dangers presented by having the largest cemetery (Les Innocents) in the city right next door to the largest outdoor food and meat market (Les Halles), in 1786 the French government made the decision to ban any future burials within the center of the city. But they went further. They also decided to close all the existing cemeteries, most of which were connected with the city's churches, and remove all the remains away from the growing urban population.
The city's oldest and largest cemetery, Le cimetière des Innocents, opened to the public in the 4th century and by the end of the 18th century reportedly contained the remains of more than 6 million Parisians. Although individual sepulchres were occasionally used, most were buried in large mass graves. (It is reported in a five-week period in 1498 some 50,000 Parisians perished from the plague and were interred in enormous mass graves in Les Innocents.)
The remains of more than 6 million Parisians were subsequently removed from the ce,etery and along with those of nearly all of the church burial grounds, were removed to an enormous underground warren of tunnels in an old quarry south of the city, and thus were born the Paris catacombs.
Since people didn't stop dying new cemeteries had to be opened to replace the old church burial grounds.
In 1804 Pere-Lachaise, probably the most famous of Parisian cemeteries, was opened to the public. Located on the site of a former Jesuit retreat east of the city, Pere-Lachaise was soon followed by Montparnasse (on the site of a much smallere and older cemetery) in the south, Montmartre to the north and eventually Passy to the east, in the shadow of the Eiffel tower.
Only two church burying grounds remains today: Saint-Germain-de- Charonne (Charonne) near Pere-Lachaise and Le cimetière du Calvaire (Calvaire), in Montmartrer.
Transportation: Most of the city's cemeteries are close to a Metro stop, and in some case two. Charonne, Picpus, St. Vincent, Auteuil will require at least a 5- or 10-minute walk. There are bus stops at or near virtually every cemetery. And don't even think about parking -- this Partis after all -- and traffic inside the cemeteries is strictly limited.
Bathrooms: Nearly every cemetery has one bathroom and Montparnasse has two and Pere-Lachaise three (sort of). Most are in relatively good condition and functional.
Hours: With few exceptions the cemeteries are operated and maintained by the city of Paris so opening and closing hours are standardized.
From November 6-March 15
- Monday-Friday: 8:00-5:30 p.m.
Saturday: 8:30-5:30
Sunday and holidays: 9:00-5:30 p.m.
From March 16-November 5
- Monday-Friday: 8:00-6:00 p.m.
Saturday: 8:30-6:00 p.m.
Sunday and holidays: 9:00-6:00p.m.
Note that cemeteries, like the parks of Paris are always closed during high wind alerts (falling trees can kill).
Facilities: At the larger cemeteries there is a "conservation" office, where you can find detailed information on specific burials. At the smaller cemeteries there is usually just a guard at the entrance. While some English is spoken at the larger cemeteries, Be prepared to ask your questions or make your inquiries in French.
Maps: Free guidemaps are available at the larger cemeteries, either at the entrance or at the "conservation" office. At Pere-Lachaise there are at least three different maps for sale outside of the cemetery. The best by far is the "Metropolitain" edition, which can found just outside the small entrance across from the Pere-Lachaise Metro exit.
Print resources: I deal with online information resources elsewhere on this site. In regards to print source materials there is very little available in English. Permanent Parisians: An Illustrated Guide to the Cemeteries of Paris by Judi Culbertson and Tom Randall is sadly out-of-date and even worse littered with inaccuracies. (I have dealt with this particular book at some lengthon my blog. Click here for more information.).
One of the best books I've come across so far is Bertrand Beyern's Guide des tombes d'hommes celebres. It is exhaustive, thorough and meticulously researched and in French. This is a must for the serious student of French gravesites. In fact, it covers not just Paris but all of France! it is truly Incroyable! (Beyern is also known locally for his interesting and amusing tours of Paris cemeteries, Pere-Lachaise in particular. In French only.)
If you are curious about the meanings (hidden and otherwise) of the symbols and signs used in funerary sculpture and architecture around the western world I strongly recommend Douglas Keister's Stories in Stone: A Field Guide to Cemetery Symbolism and Iconography. His narrative is lucid and fascinating, and his large and stunning collection of photos span cemeteries on both sides of the Atlantic.
